AMS 105: The American West

 

B. Regional Definitions

Great Plains:

     In terms of American immigrants into the United States the Great Plains is the first traveled by pioneers. However, they went through the Great Plains and called it the Great American Desert. The Great Plains runs from the 98th Meridian to the Eastern slope of the Rockies around 105th Meridian. In the North it begins in Alberta and Saskatchewan to Texas. At 98° the altitude is about 500’ above sea level and as you travel west toward Denver, Colorado, you reach 5,000’ above sea level; thus Denver is called the ‘Mile High City.’ This transition is from the Low Plains to the High Plains. The Plains economy is a mix of grain crops with cattle and later is a source of coal, gas and oil. Much of the human occupation is low population densities with some of the largest ranches and farms with thousands of acres. Most of the original family-owned farms and ranches are now owned by huge corporations. There are three great river systems that run from the Rockies to the Mississippi, they include:

Great Plains Rivers

Main River

Tributaries

Total Length to Mississippi

States

Missouri

Yellowstone, Cheyenne, Little Missouri, Niobrara, Platte, Kansas

2315 mi

To St. Louis, MO

MT-ND-SD-NB-IO-MO

Arkansas

Little Arkansas, Cimarron, Canadian, Verdigris, Neosho

1459 mi

CO-KA-OK-AR

Red

Wichita, Little

1290 mi

NM-TX-OK-

     These rivers were a haven for wildlife and provided irrigation sources. Later, these rivers were damned up for flood control, irrigation and hydroelectric power. Most of the reservoirs also provided fishing and boating resorts.

     In terms of immigrant groups there were many Europeans that settled the Great Plains after the Civil War. In Canada there were Scot and English farmers. In the Dakotas many German and Scandinavian immigrants came to farm. In Nebraska and Kansas various Central European and Eastern European immigrants came to settle along the railroads. In some cases entire towns in Europe relocated to new towns in the Plains. Oklahoma was originally Indian Territory and was one of the last frontier areas to be open. The Cherokee Strip Land Run occurred in 1893. Those that cheated and snuck out the night before were called "Sooners." Texas drew many German immigrants in the Eastern farmlands and Texas hills, but many Scotch-Irish settled the Great Plains regions from Tennessee & Kentucky after the Civil War. The southern areas of Texas were already settled by the Spanish and later Mexican immigrants.

     Most of the cities in the Great Plains were cow towns with rail hubs for shipping beef. Denver was a mining town, being in the high plains on the eastern edge of the Rocky Mts.

Great Plains Cities

City

Population

Notes

Bismark,ND

56,619

 

Wichita, KS

353,823

Founded 1864

Oklahoma City, OK

528,042

Land rush 1889

Ft. Worth, TX

603,337

Military post 1849

San Antonio, TX

1,236,249

Span. garrison 1718

Laredo , TX

203,212

Founded 1755, Span

Billings, MT

96,977

 

Cheyenne, WY

55,362

1867 first surveyed

Denver, CO

556,835

1858,gold prospectors

Albuquerque, NM

484,246

Founded 1706, Span.

Amarillo, TX

180,791

1887 water hole and cattle shipping point,1888 settled

El Paso, TX

592,099

Founded 1598, Span.

Southwest:

     The American Southwest is comprised of high desert plateaus of juniper scrub and pinyon pine or low desert regions with creosote scrub and saguaro cactus. Initially, the Spanish and later European immigrants were limited to large acreage ranches. However, minerals were also found, especially copper, silver, and turquoise. Later, immigrants emulated the ancient Hohokam (prehistoric Am. Indian) in the Gila and Salt River areas by using the ancient irrigation canals for farming. This became today’s Phoenix area. The Native American and Hispanic influence on the Southwest is extensive and includes architecture, food, dress, fiestas, and art.

                                Southwest Cities

City

Population

Notes

Santa Fe, NM

68,041

Founded in 1598, Span.
Albuquerque, NM

484,246

Edge of Plains
Phoenix, AZ

1,418,041

Founded 1867
Tucson, AZ

512,023

1775 as presidio, Span.
Flagstaff, AZ

57,038

1855 first surveyed, 1876 first settled

Southwest Rivers

River

Tributaries

Total Length

States

Rio Grande Pecos R.; Rio Conchos R. 1,885 mi

Big Bend NP

NM, TX, MEX
Colorado Gila R. and Salt R. 1,450 mi

Hoover Dam

CO, UT, AZ, CA

Rocky Mountain States:

     The Rocky Mountains and the Continental Divide run on a SE – NW diagonal beginning just above Taos, New Mexico, to the Idaho panhandle and into Canada. This mountainous region was first exploited by immigrants for timber and mining. Also, hydroelectric plants were built along the rivers. Later, resort towns like Aspen, CO  became important economic sources, especially for skiing. The Rocky Mountains eastern side is the end of the Great Plains and at 5,000- 9,500 ' above sea level you experience a shift from sagebrush  scrub to juniper scrub and Aspen and Cottonwood along the rivers as you climb in altitude. As you get higher you run into various confers with different species at different altitudes. At around 8,500 trees give out to alpine meadows and heath. The Missouri and  Arkansas  drainages start in these eastern slopes and run through the Plains to the Mississippi River. Most of the earliest people were the mountain men who eliminated the beaver throughout the West by the early 1800s. They were followed by the mining interests and timber companies.

Pacific Northwest:

     The Pacific Northwest is comprised of intermountain deserts (Plateau) that have two great rivers running from the Rocky Mountains through the High Cascades into the Northwest Coast.

 

                         Northwest Coast Rivers

Main River

Tributaries

Total length to Pacific Ocean

States

Fraser Thompson, Lillooet, Adams

850mi

Continental Divide, BC to Vancouver, BC
Columbia Duncan, Kutenai, Okanogan, Snake, Yakima, Walla Walla, Umatilla, Klickitat

1243mi

Continental divide/Columbia Lake, BC to Pacific Ocean between WA & OR

     These rivers had salmon running all the way upstream into the Rocky Mountains. On the Western slope of the High Cascades there is a virtual temperate rainforest with over 200" rainfall/annum in the Olympic Peninsula of Washington State and Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. Some of the fertile valleys, such as Willamette, Oregon, and Walla Walla, Washington, provided for early immigrant farmers before the Civil War. Also, timber, minerals, and hydroelectric power plants became part of the economy of the Pacific Northwest.

      In terms of people, many English, German, Scot-Irish, and Irish families were some of the earliest settlers. However, the Pacific Coast acted as a border for many Russian, Asian and Pacific Islander people that immigrated to the US and Canadian shores.

Pacific Northwest Cities

City

Population

Notes

Vancouver, BC

587,891

Settled 1860, Fraser R. Gold Rush

Seattle, WA

571,480

Settled 1851, lumber town

Spokane, WA

196,721

Settled in 1872

Boise, ID

190,122

Ft. Boise 1830, city 1864

Portland, OR

533,492

Settled 1845 trade, lumber

 

California:

     California is the only state that is a specific region of its own. It begins with pockets of temperate rainforests of Coastal Redwoods and Sequoia along the coast and in the Sierras. The Coastal Redwoods in the Northwest part of California and the Central Coast in Santa Cruz/Big Sur represent some of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world. Strange creatures like the Pacific Giant Salamander and the Banana Slug still lurk in this ancient forest, untouched by the Ice Age. However, most of California is made up of Riparian Oak Woodland and Scrub brush. In the Southern deserts (Mohave and Anza-Borrego) more severe deserts are comprised of Joshua Tree (a Yucca), Yucca, Creosote – Juniper scrub. Death Valley is the severest desert with the lowest point in the U.S. (-282' below sea level).

                                       

     California is separated by the High Sierras from the Basin, but is quite variable in climate and terrain. California’s attraction to American Indians and European immigrants is its incredibly mild climate due to the mountains and warm Japanese current coming from the northwest in the Pacific The Spanish missed the gold, but the Anglos found it in 1849. After the Gold Rush, farming and ranching became important. Initially, farming in the Salinas Valley provided a great output of crops. Later, the Great Central Valley produced the bulk of crops. Now, the Imperial Valley with Colorado R. irrigation has also been added to the areas of farming.

California Rivers

Main River Tributaries Total length States
Sacramento Feather, Yuba, Mokelumne, Consumnes 377 mi CA-Outflow at Suisun Bay-SF Bay
San Joaquin Tuolumne, Merced, Fresno, Kern 350 mi CA-Outflow at Suisun-SF Bay
Eel North, Middle, South Forks 200 mi CA-Lake Co-Humboldt Co
Russian   100 mi CA-Mendocino Co to Sonoma Co
Salinas Namcimento R. and San Antonio R. 155 mi CA-Outflow Salinas, Ca runs south to north from San Luis Obispo Co to Monterey Co
Santa Ana   90 mi San Bernardino Co to Riverside Co with outflow in Orange Co
San Luis Rey   55 mi CA-San Diego Co Outflow Oceanside CA
San Diego   52 mi CA- San Diego Co Outflow to San Diego Bay and Mission Bay

     In some parts of Northern California and the Sierras timber was and is a principal product. As of 1970 California resources were suppressed by tourism with its diverse cities, media, amusement parks, and National Parks.

     The first European immigrants were the Spanish in 1542 and later 1769. Later, Mexican immigrants settled as California for a brief time was a frontier of the Republic of Mexico. Later, with the Mexican War (1846-48) and the Gold Rush (1849) other Europeans poured into California from everywhere. The fishing off the California coast brought South American, Italian American, and Portuguese Americans to San Francisco, Los Angeles, and San Diego.

California Cities

City

Population

Notes

Sacramento

454,330

1839 Ft Sutter; Gold Rush trading 1849

Stockton 289,789 Founded 1849

Fresno

457,719

Founded 1872

Bakersfield

323,213 Founded 1869

San Francisco

744,230

Span. Mission 1776

Oakland

397,976

Span. 1820, current name Anglo 1854

San Jose

904,522

Span. 1777 Mission and first CA Pueblo

Santa Cruz

54,593 Spanish Mission  1791

Santa Barbara

90,473 Span. Presidio 1782, Mission 1785, city 1850

Los Angeles

3,845,541

Span. 1781

Long Beach

476,564

Span. 1784, harbor area 1884

San Diego

1,263,756

Span. Mission 1769

The Great Basin:

     This is a high desert area with no rivers running into a sea/ocean. The soil is very alkaline. Parts of Idaho, Oregon, California, Utah and all of Nevada make up this desert. Mining has been a principle economic resource, and later gaming became state legal and has afforded the Great Basin with revenue.

 

                               Great Basin Cities

City

Population

Notes

Reno, NV

197,963

Founded 1857

Las Vegas, NV

534,847

Founded by Mormons (LDS) 1855, railroad 1903 gaming legalized 1931

Salt Lake City, UT

181,743

Founded 1847 by Mormons(LDS)

     The miners of the Great Basin were a mixed lot, many from the Eastern United States or Europe, especially Wales and Eastern Europe. Basque sheepherders also came to the Basin and for many years drove along the Eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In 1847 Mormons (LDS), under Brigham Young, emigrated from New York via Illinois to settle in Utah with Salt Lake City as cultural and religious center.

     In 1931, partly due to the Depression and mining output, the state of Nevada legalized gaming. Also, a considerable amount of nuclear tests were conducted in Nevada. The Bonneville Salt Flats brought people from around the world to break land speed records.

C. Natural History & Ecosystems

     When you study any particular area, like the American West, the natural history is an important factor in human adaptations to their environment. This includes the geologic history, geography (including climate) and native wildlife. Often this information comes from other supportive courses in geology, biology, and geogrphy. I have created a separate page/ link to give some background to help you understand the base. We use some of the larger ecosystems to cover the wildlife of the American West. The ecosystems are somewhat compatible with the sub regions covered in your text Many Wests. These are as follows:   

   

ECOSYSTEM AMERICAN WEST SUBREGIONS
Great Plains Prairie Plains & Prairie Midwest
Montane Rocky Mountains, California Sierras, Cascades
Sonoran Desert Southwest, Southern California
Pacific Coast Rainforest Northwest Coast, Northern California

 

Next: II. Historical Realities

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Copyright © S. J. Crouthamel 2013